Apples to Apples
Photography by Richard Fusillo
The Estrella River basin in Paso Robles offers a unique climate with hot sunny days and cool nights, ideal conditions for growing apples, stone fruit and grapes. As the endless bevy of trees that grow from the rolling hills of the area transitions to a honey-kissed orange in the fall, Fair Hills Farms produces from its apple orchard the golden nectar of the season: apple juice.
The 178-acre farm sits at the three-way intersection of Hog Canyon, Estrella and Jardine Roads. It was founded as a family farm in May 1992 and, though it’s since changed ownership, the designation is one new owner Russel Steingold wears with pride. Fair Hills Farms is a rising star in the community and it’s easy to see — or rather, taste — why. The 100 percent cold-pressing technique brings out the intense flavor of the farm’s apples, which are highly regarded on the Central Coast and beyond.
Boasting over 15 varieties of apples, the farm also produces numerous other fruits, such as pears, pomegranates, peaches, pluots, apricots, nectarines and cherry varieties. In addition to selling its produce at farmers’ markets from San Luis Obispo County to Los Angeles, Fair Hills Farms has wholesale agreements with grocery stores like Eataly. And Two Broads Ciderworks in San Luis Obispo sources the farm’s granny smith apples for its Bearded Queen hard cider.
Russel, a native of South Africa, is a fashion executive and co-founder of Fabletics, the fashion line represented by actress Kate Hudson. Russel is also a licensed pilot and, during a flight to Paso Robles from L.A. last year, fell in love with the area and decided to buy the orchard and build a home here. In his words, he’s truly “living the American dream.”
Standing among the array of trees, there’s an overwhelming sense of heart and soul behind every piece of sun-kissed fruit or bottle of juice produced here. “We are a family of people who live to serve our community with the best fruit in the area,” Russel says. “We celebrate birthdays and want our teams to have a sense of ownership, which we offer by way of profit-share.”
Since he purchased the farm, Russel has increasingly focused on sustainability, seeking ways to improve via natural growing techniques such as bringing in bees to pollinate and produce honey on site. “We’re transitioning back to certified organic and trying to encourage our neighbors to do the same,” he shares.
Russel also launched apple juice production to reduce waste. While imperfect apples are rejected by supermarkets, with juice it’s about pleasing the palate, not the eye. The farm’s small batch apple juice varies from press to press, but always highlights the land’s rich soil and hand-selected apples. Much like the grapes grown for making wine, the microclimate and landscape of SLO County lend a sort of magic to producing apples, too.
Fair Hills Farms representative Cynthia Conran says the work truly is as sweet as the product itself. “As an employee, I’m delighted and excited to be working alongside Russel and the team, bringing our fruits back to organic and helping spread the love and goodness. I’m a huge fan of the apple juice, happy to help get it out to as many consumers as I possibly can, so everyone can appreciate it,” she shares.
Another attractive quality of the presentation is the health benefits of Fair Hills Farms’ products. Russel touts his farm’s cold-pressed juice as a kind of wellness elixir that can “help ease the strain of detoxification on your body. It’s full of nutrients that are geared towards fighting toxins and boosting immunity and health.” Apple juice is rich in plant compounds, particularly antioxidants like polyphenols, which health researchers believe may shield the brain from free radical damage over time. Apples also possess anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce symptoms connected to respiratory issues.
And now, with the artisan, health-conscious mocktail craze ramping up, Fair Hills Farms’ juice also makes for an excellent alcohol-free drink. Though it’s delicious as a pure pour, the juice is also quite tasty when chilled and cut with a splash of sparkling water, or warmed with a cinnamon stick and dash of clove.
