Free-Range on the Farm
Story by Zoe Elliott Shaw
Photography by Richard Fusillo
On a grassy Paso Robles hillside, a flock of chickens roams freely, pecking at the ground in search of insects and warming their feathers in the sun. Pasture-raised animals need room to roam; they thrive with food and conditions that respect their biology, welfare and needs. These instinctual needs are met at BeeWench Farm, where chickens produce nutrient dense meat packed with more vitamins and minerals than factory farmed animals. In addition to improving the animals’ health, this farming practice lessens the carbon footprint, improving sustainability and use of the land.
In 2020, previous BeeWench Farm owners and close friends of the Lodens, Sarah and Ryan Reeber, moved to Kentucky and approached Annie and DJ about a farm takeover. “I won’t lie, the first year was a struggle especially with a toddler and a baby in the mix, but we are finding our rhythm,” says Annie. “The best part is hearing from our customers that our products have changed their life, [for instance] being able to eat foods they previously had allergic reactions to. We feed our animals a corn-free, soy-free, non-GMO diet, complete with foods I ferment like barley and sunflower seeds. They love what they eat.”
The Lodens tend their 10-acre farm employing holistic management that considers the farmer’s whole system and implements chickens and pigs as tools that participate in the soil health. Their broiler hens enjoy pecking around in a Salatin-style chicken tractor, which is a mobile shelter with shade cloth on dollies, offering the birds access to fresh dirt, grass and bugs while fertilizing the soil. The couple waits 60–120 days before returning the birds to the same soil, giving the ground adequate time to rest and recover. This method takes more time and planning but protects the health of the soil, an approach that factory farming typically ignores.
The egg mobile allows laying hens to roost and nest in cozy boxes, then sleep free range in certain areas. Annie and DJ process their own chickens to minimize the stress of transporting the birds before slaughtering while also keeping down the cost to the consumer. “The processing step is a common hurdle and hang-up for small chicken farmers,” says Annie. “We butcher the birds on Saturdays ourselves. We avoid having to use a bleach water solution on the meat like most chicken processors do. We are a small and mighty operation; we use hot water, soap and sunshine. It works well and we can maintain the integrity, even if it means we can’t mass produce for sales outside of the county or state.”
At the Halcyon Farms Stand where the Lodens sell their products, DJ picks up one of the pale pink chickens, a blank canvas for herbs and rubs. This bird could be prepared in a variety of ways, such as an overnight soaking in a bath of seasoned buttermilk before a smoking session on the grill. Spring onions and all the hearty local greens one can carry would create the perfect nest of aromas for the bird. Cabbages like bok choy could serve as a bed to capture every last one of those chicken drippings. The preparation of the chicken should be as thoughtful as the raising of the bird.
In a convenience-based world, Annie and DJ work long and hard for their niche of grateful customers. To support their family, Annie works full time during the week at Epoch Estate Wines and DJ can be found at three different farmers’ markets, as well as preparing deliveries for shipment across the county. They do all of this while raising two preschool-age children.
“Our day starts around 5am. We get up before the kids to feed and water the animals, move them off their mobile to lay, then move chicken tractors,” shares Annie. “After the kids get home from school we feed and water the animals and they help collect eggs — that’s their favorite part. We have dinner and around sunset, we close up the egg mobiles. I used to stress about the timing and schedules but now I just enjoy our time outdoors together as a family, as I’ve learned to view the whole thing through their eyes.”
