“Whiskey is for drinking; water is for fighting over.”

This authorless phrase is often misattributed to notable writer Mark Twain, but nonetheless, it’s a valid argument. Whiskey, and other distilled spirits, beer and wine all require water for production. It goes without saying — the same is true of all agriculture. It’s no wonder management of this vital resource is top of mind for San Luis Obispo County farmers, ranchers, brewers and winemakers.

The Water Cycle

The cycle of water is a concept taught in many earth science classrooms: evaporation from oceans and lakes feeds clouds that carry rain. When clouds release their contents, some water seeps into aquifers through percolation, while much of the remainder travels to the ocean via rivers and creeks. Plants and animals use the rest through groundwater.

In dry years, farmers and homeowners pump more from the aquifer to water crops and lawns. Too many dry years can lead to drought. San Luis Obispo County’s Public Works department monitors 26 weather stations that track rainfall across the region. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) monitors data on drought conditions throughout California, where dry years have become more frequent than wet years. Either condition requires farmers and producers to adapt.

Water is Critical to SLO County Producers

San Luis Obispo is well known for its wineries and, increasingly, breweries and distilleries. Beyond what’s in our cups, the county recorded in 2022 its third ever instance of producing more than $1 billion worth of agricultural commodities. According to the local agriculture department, 10 crops account for 75 percent of that total — wine grapes and strawberries comprise nearly a third together. These farming interests compete for water with homes, golf courses, businesses and of course, human consumption.

The water for all these uses comes from seven aquifers spread out throughout the county and in Santa Maria. The Groundwater Sustainability department considers three of them “high priority,” meaning they follow mandatory plans for responsible groundwater management and face stricter regulations regarding groundwater usage compared to low priority basins.

In years of drought, farmers must increase their water usage to irrigate more often. Ariela Gottschalk, Owner and Operator of Halcyon Farms in Arroyo Grande, says water is one of the biggest bills for a farm. “Expenses for electricity to pump water are definitely much higher in drought years,” she explains. “That impacts our profit margins.”

During a wet 2023, rainfall refilled depleted reservoirs in a much-needed way. But one wet year doesn’t remedy decades of drought or replenish aquifers. During the last drought, the Paso Basin Land Use Planting Ordinance limited increases in crop acreage and expansions of well bore diameters, and many of the restrictions remain in place. These guardrails slow farm growth, causing a financial pinch.