Masters of Mixology
Photography by Richard Fusillo
Along the railroad tracks on a sun-drenched street in Paso Robles, the push of an unassuming doorbell on a featureless building signals a person inside to slide open the small peak-a-boo window on the door. After the number of people are counted, the door suddenly swings open, revealing a dark, closet-sized room lined with books. Inside, a dapper gentleman donning a waistcoat and tie demands all cellphones, which he places inside secure pouches. Only then is the back door of the small room pushed open to uncover 1122, a modern-day speakeasy.
On the walls, dark wood wainscoting contrasts with brass-studded white leather. Seven padded barstools anoint the marble bar, which runs parallel to just six narrow tables which appear too small to hold dinner plates; the space itself can’t host more than 27 people. Of course, there were bars in Paso Robles before 1122, but most others are remnants of bartending trends glorified by Tom Cruise in the 1988 film “Cocktail.” The debut of 1122 ushered in an era of “craft mixology” that since has blossomed into a movement, spawning another sanctum of spectacular cocktails, like those made nearby at The Alchemist’s Garden.
But enough about the aesthetic. One page of the menu celebrates classic cocktails, while the final page harkens back to the true age of the speakeasy with so-called forgotten cocktails. On 1122’s seasonal menu are sensational cocktails like “Bee a Gentleman,” made with Gentleman Jack, tea syrup, Montenegro, Angostura, hickory and oak. What’s deemed an 1122 original, “Connery Row” is a concoction of rum, chartreuse, lime, orgeat and Demerara. The hands-down favorite that will never leave the menu, the “Butter Pecan Old Fashioned,” is a tasty mix of bourbon, pecan syrup, Angostura and orange bitters. Unfamiliar with some of these ingredients? Ask and find out; that’s half the fun of the modern bar experience. The host and/or bartender will likely regale you with a waterfall of information and spirited inspiration.
The 1122 cocktail program was designed by Tony Bennet, who is also responsible for the libations at Fish Gaucho and several other respected area bars. Tony, along with mixologist partners Alexandra Pellot, Andrew Brune and Quin Cody, really helped define the mixology movement that’s been gaining momentum in Paso Robles like a tasty tsunami. Not long ago, the foursome joined forces to create the uniquely stunning cocktail lounge The Alchemist’s Garden, located just three doors down from 1122.
The four cocktail virtuosos drummed up the idea for 1122 when, after years of creating bar programs for many top-notch local spots like Ember and La Cosecha, they attended together a 2019 bartender’s conference in Puerto Rico. Sitting on the beach one day, they resolved it was time to make mixology magic for themselves rather than for their various employers.
As the team settled into the spot previously inhabited by the legendary and once-beloved Villa Creek, local expectations and curiosity began bubbling up. They wanted to profoundly transform the space, creating a “destination” establishment. With the help of some immensely talented local artisans like sculptor Max Randolph, who created the runic and symbolic copper insets in the new concrete bar and its stunning sign, these drink makers have succeeded.
“We wanted to bring in a fresh, very open and clean atmosphere. It’s a bit different for a small, wine country town,” says Quin. “Instead of mixology, we are creating alchemy —the original science — and botanicals are the backbone and inspiration for the whole program.”
Copper, an element of alchemy that represents creativity, gleams warmly almost everywhere you look. Creativity is readily apparent in the glass and on the plate. Whereas 1122 is dimly lit and cozy, The Alchemist’s Garden features high ceilings and numerous windows to allow natural light to bounce off the white walls.
Behind the bar, the many house-made vegetable, flower, herb and spice infusions take center stage. Each cocktail is carefully calibrated and concocted by a trained team. The visual effect, which includes fire, fog and flowers, is equally important.
One of the most popular cocktails is “The Alchemist’s Gold,” a combination of cacao-infused bourbon, crème de banane, bitters and hickory smoke in a Stroh rum-caramelized glass. Holding the cocktail up to the light causes it to shimmer like gold (no Goldschläger here!).
An ode to the botany side of things, each cocktail not only lists the ingredients but also the plant family designation that’s found in a botany book. “The Apothecary” comes from the family “Mojito,” and “Dream Seeds,” featuring Mission Trail saffron-infused brandy, orange Wine Shine, Gran Gala and lemon, is noted as belonging to the family “Sidecar.” These distinctions are more than a cute touch, they’re helpful to seasoned and novice barflies alike.
Unlike at 1122, guests of The Alchemist’s Garden can indulge in small bites made by a top-notch chef. Like the drinks, nothing on the menu is typical. Try on for size the umami popcorn seasoned with sweet fire, za’tar sesame or cheesy-herb.
In a corner of the country highly regarded for its wine, it may seem reasonable to question whether Paso Robles can handle more than one fantastical cocktail lounge. But where there is passion, people will follow and as illustrated by the masterfully mixed drinks on the menus of these two spaces, there is plenty of heart in each sip.
