The Love and Lure of San Luis Obispo’s Farmed Taco Works Chips
Photography by Jerry Perez
Let’s declare chips and salsa summer’s comfort food. There’s no denying that warm-fuzzy feeling of celebration that accompanies cozying up with the chip bowl at a cookout. Whether the accoutrement of choice is salsa or velvety smooth guacamole, a chip-and-dip setup can be the secret weapon for quieting restless kids and adults while a meal is bubbling or the grill is roaring.
The crunchy snack is a superstar at any get-together, but the lure and lore of the chip bowl are even more powerful when it holds a pile of triangles from a familiar orange Taco Works bag.
That classic look packaging can be spotted in Central Coast sandwich shops and local supermarkets, and as a six-pack “cube” at surrounding Costcos and online. The brand’s new non-GMO, sea-salt Montaña de Oro style graces the shelves of Whole Foods and Lassen’s. And those drool-worthy nachos are served at Ben Franklin’s Deli and Black Sheep Bar & Grill in San Luis Obispo, in addition to SLO’s Sunset Drive-In and the Hi-Way Drive-In in Santa Maria.
Robbie Bayly, general manager at San Luis Obispo’s Taco Works, has a two-part theory about why their chips are so popular with both locals and visitors. First, he says, the unique texture makes the experience special.
“We make a great-tasting chip,” Robbie says. “It’s got a higher oil content, so it’s crispy, crunchy and flaky. It’s seasoned so it really doesn’t need to be dipped. People can eat just the chips alone.”
Second, says Robbie, the Taco Works chip is “something that ties you to the Central Coast,” a trigger food for fond memories of BBQs, beach days and family vacations. “We’re the Central Coast in a bag,” he says.
Just how comforting are Taco Works chips? Robbie chuckles as he tells a story about one customer’s cravings. “There was a pregnant customer who loved the Taco Works nachos from the drive-in so much that she asked her husband to go to the drive-in just to get her the nachos,” Robbie says.
Robbie’s dad Ty Bayly started Taco Works as a restaurant in 1976 off Foothill Drive in SLO. But by 1980, the increasing demand for his seasoned chips was a sign it was time to switch to chips full-time. “My dad was always trying something new to see what the customers liked,” says Robbie. The chips started flying off the shelves at former local supermarket chain Williams Bros. and soon, “my dad was filling up his car and driving across the county to restock them!”
It turns out the Taco Works feeling is not reserved for chips alone. That classic orange bag now adorns beer cans, too. With the familiar bright colors wrapped around 16-ounce cans of Tortilla Chip Lager, a winter collaboration between Taco Works and iconic SLO Brew exploded with popularity.
“That took everybody by surprise,” remarks Robbie. “And it was a fun project. SLO Brew did a great job making a tasty beer.”
The chips have always been produced in SLO. Robbie says keeping production local works to the company’s advantage. With the stay-at-home order issued last year, Taco Works dodged the supply chain issues that rattled supermarkets.
“We were able to respond quickly because our warehouse is local,” he says.
Robbie says there’s actually been a bit of growth this past year. Currently, the Taco Works single production line cranks out 20 million chips annually. Can it do more? Yes. “Soon we’ll be in more stores statewide,” Robbie says.
Robbie believes Central Coast products have an advantage; the weather and the natural geographical beauty create a legendary nostalgia around local food. “There’s something special about this place that helps out coastal products. Local stores have been good to us,” Robbie says.
He also recognizes the company’s seemingly effortless cult status. Taco Works doesn’t market its product, there’s no storefront and its social media presence is barely there, but people still reach out by email or stop by the warehouse to profess their love for the chips. “It’s always really cool to hear about the impact of the chips,” he shares.
Though it could easily be argued that these chips, with their salty crunch, are best paired with an adult beverage like a frothy margarita, fancy albariño or even a cheap beer, Robbie says there’s no right way to indulge.
“We don’t tell people how to eat them,” remarks Robbie. “But for me, my tried and true is just a big ol’ plate of nachos.”
