Meatless Myths: A New Era of Veganism

Eat, Featured, Spring 2023 – Issue 39

Story by Emily Basanese

Photography by Travis Farrell

Whether over concerns tied to the environment, related to health or for animal welfare, a vegan diet has become increasingly popular in the United States. Veganism excludes all animal-sourced products, like meat, cheese, eggs, milk and honey. For many, the term “vegan” may elicit images of jiggly tofu lasagna, dry desserts or eggplant overload. As a fellow bacon lover, the idea of fake bacon (or fakon, as it’s called) carries little appeal. But this myth surrounding veganism — that the food is bland and dry — is being debunked one plate at a time by San Luis Obispo County restaurants that utilize fresh ingredients, decadent sauces and creative techniques to produce delicious food for every appetite.

At Bliss Cafe Marketplace & Lounge on Higuera Street in San Luis Obispo, diners can try a bite of everything at the county’s only vegan buffet. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and features a small bodega of vegan groceries. Handmade sauces add a depth of flavor to the fresh ingredients, like alfalfa sprouts, avocado, hemp and ginger. “Bliss was inspired by the philosophy to listen to your body’s own wisdom without consuming anything harmful,” says Co-Owner Dara Stepanek. “The foundation of the menu is local, organic and plant based. We aim to support our local farmers — the produce we use typically comes from within a 30-mile radius.”

The menu infuses Brazilian flavors with an Ayurvedic twist. Ayurveda is a natural, holistic approach to health and an ancient medical system that is still practiced today in India. The humble breakfast burrito at Bliss, for instance, includes roasted potatoes, pinto beans, tomatillo-guacamole and flavorful karma asada. These items are just the tip of the iceberg (lettuce) so to speak. Bliss also offers smoothies, fresh juices and elixirs.

Similarly, Y’Not Organic in Pismo Beach offers plant-based smoothie bowls, which incorporate wholesome ingredients designed for wellness: turmeric, bee pollen and lucuma (a natural, antioxidant-rich sweetener). Team Lead Lama Jorjos has been with the company since it opened in October of 2016. She is still inspired by the shop’s goals to “encourage people to eat healthier and incorporate vegan foods,” adding that, “even if you aren’t vegan, it is great to try healthy options.” Those in the mood for a heartier meal can try Y’Not’s avocado toast on Ezekiel bread, cashew butter toast or vegan mushroom sausage sandwich.

Like the food that goes in them, even the containers at Y’Not are sustainable. “We only use all organic ingredients and compostable containers,” Lama explains.

Since 1984, Linnaea’s Café on Garden Street in San Luis Obispo has been serving breakfast and lunch. The food is always vegetarian, and often vegan. In a small café adorned with local art, patrons dig into a rotating menu of seasonal items. Two crowd favorites are the butternut black bean enchiladas and coconut curried tofu. The pastry case is always full of decadent treats, including the vegan chocolate cake. Moist and indulgent, yet light, this dessert is made sans eggs, butter or milk.

The Vreamery at the Paso Market Walk offers a cheese shop and melt bar. Owner Jennifer Golden began eating dairy free in 2015 when her father was diagnosed with dementia. She found that plant-based diets are exceptionally nourishing for brain and gut health, so she started experimenting. Jennifer made her own cashew cream that became so popular among friends, she started selling it at farmers’ markets. That was before she attended PLANTLAB, an international raw vegan culinary academy. After graduating, Jennifer expanded her offerings and moved into a brick-and-mortar location, becoming the third vegan cheese shop in the nation and the very first vendor at the Market Walk. Though she believes her cheeses are just as good as the dairy variety, she explains that plant-based diets take time. “I’m 98 percent vegan. It’s a process, not an event,” she says.

In addition to curated vegan cheeses, The Vreamery offers grazing boxes, fresh salads and wraps, paninis and even a DIY vegan cheesemaking kit. House-made vegan salami, vegan poke and vegan caviar are also on the menu. “I’m very interested in the health benefits of food,” says Jennifer, who also enjoys the creative manipulation of food. “For example, the poke is colored with beets.”

For Matt Martinez and Brian Englund, Co-Owners of Ziggy’s in San Luis Obispo, the shift to veganism came after years of noticing how poorly meals with a lot of meat made them feel. With backgrounds in fine dining, the two got to work on developing a menu of what Matt calls “familiar flavors that are very approachable.” The fully vegan restaurant opened just before the pandemic, and the wave of takeout seen across the country thankfully kept business booming.

While veganism is often associated with salads and raw veggies, Ziggy’s customers expect anything but. “This isn’t health food — it’s fried!” Matt says with a laugh. “It’s a great lighter option for your traditional favorites. Often, people are shocked to learn that the burger they’re eating is actually vegan.” Matt recommends the Impossible burger, Korean cauliflower bites and the crunch wrap supreme (inspired by Taco Bell).

Climate researchers found that commercial meat production has a detrimental impact on climate change and predict a dramatic reduction in environmental harm when Americans cut meat out from even one meal a week. Whether craving a wholesome meal or something on the greasy side, local restaurants serve up plates of delicious vegan food sure to wow even the biggest skeptics.