Michelin-Starred Chef Charlie Palmer Brings 3 concepts to Paso Robles
Story by Linda Reed
Illustration by Anna Takahashi
Actors have Academy Awards; football players are honored with the Heisman Trophy; writers strive for a Pulitzer Prize. To chefs, the Michelin star is a source of great pride. With more than 20 stars and several James Beard Awards, Paso Robles newcomer Chef Charlie Palmer could be the Meryl Streep, Archie Griffin or Robert Frost of his field.
But Charlie is no diva. While someone with such accolades could be intimidating, Charlie is charming, engaged and keenly focused on Paso Robles.
This North County destination is internationally recognized for its exceptional wines, beer, distilled spirits, olive oil and a laid-back, Italy-in-California ambiance. It also currently has two Michelin starred restaurants: Six Test Kitchen and The Restaurant at JUSTIN. Charlie, who lives in Healdsburg, California, has been keenly aware of the area for years and plans to highlight the wines and local farms and purveyors on his menu.
“Paso Robles has all the raw ingredients — world-class wine, incredible local producers, growers, ranchers and a deep sense of community,” says Charlie, Founder of Charlie Palmer Collective. “I’m thrilled to be creating three new concepts that not only reflect the spirit of this region but also aim to put Paso on the national map as a true culinary destination.”
The three establishments he believes will light that spark are a modern restaurant with California ingredients, an upscale Western bar and lounge with cocktails and hearty fare, and a place for drinks and “unfussy” fare. They’re based in the Paso Robles Inn and The Piccolo.
“The new concepts will highlight the greatest wines that are being made in Paso, side-by-side with the greatest wines of the world, whether it be Old World wines, French wines, or wines from Napa or Sonoma,” he says. “That’s the way to tell the story.”
Charlie’s story started in the dairy farming community of Smyrna, New York, where he grew up helping with the family farm. He spent time in France with French chef and restaurateur Georges Blanc. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he rose to the rank of Executive Chef (the highest level in the restaurant kitchen hierarchy) at the River Café in the New York City’s Brooklyn Bridge Park at the young age of 23. There, he earned his first three Michelin stars. Charlie opened his flagship restaurant, Aureole, in 1988, on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.
In addition to his impressive collection of Michelin stars, the James Beard Foundation named him “Best Chef in America” in 1997. He is the author of six cookbooks, including one that features camp cooking recipes, highlighting his “honest” cooking philosophy. He shares recipes online, like one particularly mouthwatering dish filed under “Grilled Pork Chops with Rum Maple Barbecue Sauce.” See the recipe below.
Charlie and his wife, Lisa, have four boys.
A Culinary Journey Rooted in Local Community and Modern Dining
Peregrine Hospitality recently purchased the Paso Robles Inn and sister property, The Piccolo. General Manager Erica Fryburger says, “Our goal at the Paso Robles Inn has always been to create a space where the community can come together and create lasting memories.”
In that vein, Peregrine Hospitality is partnering with Charlie and his team to bring their distinctive touch to the three dining venues. Paso Robles has rich soil, which will allow him to pull from local produce for new dishes. “I want it to be hyper local, by doing our homework and really understanding the language of food in Paso,” Charlie explains.
The chef’s focus is on providing an atmosphere that Paso Robles area residents can embrace, including sourcing as much produce and protein as possible from the surrounding area. He recognizes that providing a place that’s accessible is essential. At his Healdsburg restaurant, a Thursday Neighbor Night affords customers a three-course menu at a lower price. And they waive corkage fees for up to two standard bottles from local wineries. Plans are to offer the same in Paso Robles.
Exciting Remodeling Plans
Cattlemen’s Lounge
Known as a place where cowboys and ranchers gathered at the end of the day, the Cattlemen’s Lounge opened in 1942. It’s such a watering hole for cowboys that on two occasions, once in 1957 and again in 1979, patrons rode a horse up the stairs to the second-floor bar. [Note that hotel management strongly discourages this practice.] The feel of the new upscale Western bar and lounge will harken back to the rustic yet elegant décor of the original 1942 lounge. Classic cocktails will be on offer alongside hearty, straightforward bar food.
The Pass by Palmer
The former Steakhouse, redesigned as The Pass by Palmer, will serve as a modern tavern. The menu includes fresh seafood from Morro Bay and seasonally inspired dishes featuring locally farmed food and great cuts of meat. Partnership with area growers Mighty Cap Mushrooms and Austin Hope Wines underline Charlie’s commitment to a local focus.
The name is a play on words, referencing the city’s name — El Paso del Robles — which translates from Spanish as the pass of the oaks, and the pass, or the last station in a restaurant where a dish passes from the kitchen to the customer.
Salina Rooftop
The Tetto Rooftop Bar, located atop the Piccolo Hotel, is transitioning to Salina Rooftop: At the Piccolo. The name is a nod to the Salinas River, which flows through San Luis Obispo County. Property managers describe the new space as “a laid-back, open-air spot built for golden hour, where craft cocktails, local wines, and unfussy bites come with a view.” A rooftop garden and live music will make an already inviting space even more so.
Grilled Pork Chops with Rum Maple Barbecue Sauce
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
- 1½ cups dark rum
- ¼ cup salt
- ¼ cup sugar
- 3 cups ice cubes
- 6 center-cut pork chops, about 2 inches thick (see Note)
- Canola oil for rubbing the chops
- Salt and pepper
- Rum-Maple Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
PREPARATION
Step 1
Combine the rum with 1 quart cold water in a 2-gallon resealable plastic bag. Add salt and sugar and seal. Set aside, shaking occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until sugar and salt have dissolved. Add ice cubes and let them melt for a few minutes.
Step 2
Place chops in iced brine. Seal bag and place in a large bowl (or any container large enough to hold it) to catch any leaks. Transfer to refrigerator and brine for about 4 hours, but no more than 6 hours. When ready to cook, preheat grill to high and oil it. Remove chops from brine and pat dry. Rub chops with oil and season with salt and pepper.
Step 3
Place chops on grill and close the lid. Grill for 90 seconds; then turn, re-cover and grill other side for another 90 seconds. If using charcoal or wood fire, move chops to cooler part of the grill; if using, gas, lower the temperature to medium. Re-cover and grill for another 4 minutes. Uncover, turn chops and, using a pastry brush, lightly brush tops with barbecue sauce. Continue grilling, turning frequently and continually brushing with a light touch of the sauce, for about 15 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 145 degrees F and the chops are nicely glazed. Transfer to a serving platter and lightly tent with aluminum foil. Allow to rest for about 7 minutes so meat can relax and juices can flow. Serve with extra sauce on the side.
Note: If you can find them, “bacon cut” pork chops are great on the grill as they still have some of the pork belly attached. Because of improved breeding and butchering techniques, pork is now cooked to a much lower temperature than in the past. An internal temperature of 145 degrees F should produce meat that is tender and juicy, yet can be safely eaten.
For the rum-maple barbecue sauce:
Makes about 5 cups
INGREDIENTS
- 1 cup dark rum
- 1 cup maple syrup
- 1 cup cider vinegar
- 1 cup tomato ketchup
- ½ cup tightly packed light brown sugar
- ¼ cup Dijon mustard
- 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- ¾ cup finely chopped onion
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
- Cayenne pepper
- Salt and pepper
Combine rum, syrup, vinegar, ketchup, sugar, mustard and Worcestershire sauce in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and thyme and bring to a simmer. Lower heat and season with cayenne, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, or until thick. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 month.
