Two SLO County Vineyards Surpass 100-Year Milestone
Story by Katy Budge
Few people on Earth today were around when the oldest vines of two historic local vineyards were first planted. One in Paso Robles was planted during the Jazz Age, while another in the Arroyo Grande Valley harkens back to the dawn of electricity powering our homes. From J Dusi Wines to Saucelito Canyon Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County showcases some of the oldest vines and winemaking legacies in all of California.
Twists of Fate for the Dusi Family Tree
Sylvester Dusi and Caterina Gazzaroli grew up relatively close to each other in small, hardscrabble villages in Northern Italy. But they didn’t meet until he picked her up in 1922 at the Angel Island Immigration Station in San Francisco. Introduced via letters from a mutual family friend, both were in search of a better life through hard work and determination.
Why they eventually settled in Paso Robles is unclear. Was it the Mediterranean climate that reminded them of home? Or the comfort of the town’s existing Italian community? Whatever the reason, it wasn’t long before they had several businesses from Paso Robles to San Luis Obispo, ranging from an Italian grocery to a billiard hall and a hotel.
A Legacy that Grows
By 1925, the Dusis bought land on which to build their home and plant a vineyard. Named for one of their three sons, Benito Dusi Vineyard is still thriving today. Its gnarled 100-year-old Zinfandel vines stand as a testament to perseverance and resilience.
When brothers Dante and Guido left for World War II, young Benito stayed behind to help farm the vineyard, already recognized throughout California for its quality wine grapes. When the brothers returned, the Dusis purchased additional acreage just across the highway from their family home. In 1945, they planted Zinfandel at what came to be called the Dante Dusi Vineyard.
The next two generations also committed themselves to producing high-quality wine grapes. As acclaim for the family’s Zinfandel rosé, the renowned Ridge Vineyards started buying their fruit in 1967. That would prove momentous in 1976, when that winery became the first to list Paso Robles as the source of their grapes, and specifically named the Dusi Vineyard.
“That changed everything,” says Joni Dusi, wife of Dante’s son, Mike. Along with putting the region and the Dusi name in the spotlight, it helped elevate Zinfandel from jug-wine status to a respected varietal. “They [Sylvester and Caterina] came from nothing, but they were willing to do what it took,” she adds. “We wonder what they would think of all this today.”
The Next Chapters
Now stretching into their fifth generation in Paso Robles, it’s no surprise the Dusis aren’t resting on their laurels. With the rest of the family focused on growing wine grapes, Mike and Joni’s daughter, Janell Dusi, set her sights on winemaking. After winning several local competitions before even old enough to legally imbibe, she gained global wine industry experience ahead of launching the acclaimed J Dusi label in 2006. While showcasing the Dusis’ rich Zinfandel history, the label also produces blends with other varieties from the family’s estate vineyards.
“Stylistically, I try to show restraint so you can see what’s going on in our vineyards,” Janell explains. “I want to make social wines that will bring people together.”
When many would be eyeing retirement, Mike Dusi had his sights set on some rugged acreage off Kiler Canyon Road. With sons Matt and Michael, he cleared the property and established Paper Street Vineyard in 2012. Branching out from the family’s signature Zinfandel, the vineyard also has varieties such as Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Clairette Blanche, Tempranillo, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah.
“Paper Street is giving us the chance to work very closely with other winemakers that we hadn’t worked with before,” says Matt. “We’re relying on farming practices we’ve used for generations, but also learning many new techniques that are needed for this extreme site, as well as for different varieties.”
It remains to be seen how the fifth generation will leave their mark on the Dusis’ history. Michael’s son Dante has already revealed his talent and passion for farming wine grapes. Matt and Ali Dusi’s children, Delaney and Parker, have grown up as part of the family’s all-hands-on-deck crew during harvest and special events.
“They’re all certainly already involved in the family business, and will always be a part of it in some way,” Ali says. “But it’s up to them to decide what to do with it, to find their own way to keep the family legacy going.”
Age Isn’t Just a Number
Founded by Bill and Nancy Greenough, some of Saucelito Canyon Vineyard’s vines date back to 1880, among the oldest in California.
When the Greenoughs bought the old Rancho Saucelito in 1974, they would have been forgiven for ripping out those three acres of existing Zinfandel vines. Abandoned after Prohibition, the vineyard was in sorry shape. But Bill meticulously restored the aging vines and produced the first vintage of his signature Zinfandels in 1982.
“I didn’t feel overwhelmed, it was obvious what I had to do,” Bill says on his winery’s website. “I was just doing it one vine at a time.”
Their 1880 Zinfandel was recently chosen for pouring at the Old Vine Conference 2025, a global convention dedicated to the celebration, heritage and preservation of wines made from historic vines. It is made exclusively from vines planted 145 years ago in the Arroyo Grande Valley, among the oldest in the state and the oldest in San Luis Obispo County.
Saucelito Canyon remains today a family affair. Bill and Nancy are still active in the winery, but they’ve been joined by their son and daughter, Winemaker Tom Greenough and Margaret Greenough, a family medicine specialist who heads up the vineyard’s production and marketing. Together, the two generations are sustainably building upon the label’s rich legacy of estate-grown Zinfandels.
As one of the earliest producers of commercial wine in the county, the pen may have traded hands but the story of this legacy vineyard continues with the next generation of Greenoughs.
