The History of Dubost Winery’s Land in Paso Robles’ Adelaida District
This article examines the history of Paso Robles’ Adelaida District, which was once mined for mercury instead of being farmed for grapes. Writer Kasey Main hears from winery Owner Curt Dubost about growing up in the area and how the property has evolved.
Story by Kasey Main
Upon their escape from the war-torn Cherbourg region of France in the 1870s, the ancestors of Curt Dubost immigrated to Hawaii then South Dakota before ultimately finding refuge in northern San Luis Obispo County. When this lineage of would-be winemakers first settled in the Adelaida District, it was known for mercury mining, not grapes.
“They heard of the discovery of cinnabar (the primary mineral ore of mercury) in the Santa Lucia Mountains on the Central Coast of California and took a clipper ship to Cayucos,” explains Curt, Dubost Winery Owner. “Led by my great grandfather, Auguste, for whom another of our blends is named, in 1882 used the proceeds of the sale of their property in France to purchase the Klau Mine.”
This region west of Paso Robles yielded the precious metal for about 100 years, leading mining companies to build roads and infrastructure in the area. Schools were founded by families, and the Dubosts operated a general store, post office and dance hall. Sought after for its use in thermometers and barometers, mercury was a prized product that led to a boom in local settlements.
“My great aunt Natalie died of pneumonia on her honeymoon in 1908 and the family didn’t know of her illness until it was too late. Hence they started the single party line Adelaida Rural Telephone Co. in 1909. It operated until 1960 when taken over finally by the Bell System,” says Curt. “My first recollection of a home phone was the large wooden box phone on the wall with a crank on the side and our number was two longs and a short.”
The eventual understanding of the metal’s toxicity led to the closure of most mines by the 1960s. The same mineral-rich soil that supported the mining community then paved the way for the renowned vineyards of today. “Pretty much all agree that some aspect of the wine industry is the only way now to sustain a family ranch here in Adelaida,” says Curt.
Today, the Adelaida District, which is the most northwestern of the 11 Paso Robles American Viticultural Area (AVA) districts, has 800 acres of vineyard that produce six key grape varietals. But Curt remembers life from a simpler time. In the 1950s, Curt recalls, “most of the wines were sold in jugs and consumed locally or sold in bulk to Basque hotels in the Central Valley.”
Curt, who grew up in San Diego, remembers spending every summer and other vacations at the Dubost Ranch. “My dad grew barley and raised sheep and cattle. He supplemented his income by drilling the holes with an old tractor for most of the almond and walnut orchards that are now being removed to plant wine grapes.”
Around 2000, Curt and his wife Kate launched the family winery with their son, Jacob Raines. Jacob planted an eight-acre vineyard on the family land in 2001, from which they produced their first wine in 2004. The district’s mountainous topography, higher levels of rainfall and presence of limestone all influence the wine made at Dubost Winery. High elevation also influences the grape growing, leading to temperature swings that support exceptional grape production.
Many neighboring families and ranches sold to larger companies as time wore on, but the Dubost Winery remained. Curt recalls one of the many blessings of his life being that his wife and children love the ranch and have committed to keeping it in the family. “[They] have been integral to our winery’s inception and growth,” he says.
As they expanded their reach across the county and beyond, tragedy struck. Jacob, the first Dubost winemaker and planter of many of the vines, was tragically lost to an accident on the property in 2010. Known for having a beautiful mind for art and an uncanny knack for creativity, his designs still grace wine bottles and art at the winery today to inspire future generations.
At Dubost Winery, hard work and storytelling take precedence. Today, Curt is a local school superintendent and has a passion for pairing great wines with delicious pizza for guests. The winery features locally sourced cheeses and meats, available fruits and their own dough. “I love to experiment, and each month Kate and I settle on a featured special pizza using whatever fruits are in season,” says Curt.
In the wine industry, Kate says agony and ecstasy go hand in hand. More than just Dubost Winery, Kate calls on wine enthusiasts to support small operations. “I hope there is a place in the county for small, family-owned wineries,” says Kate.
But small, family-owned wineries are feeling the effects of the wine industry’s pressure to compete with larger companies. Kate knows the obstacles the winery has overcome through its lifetime, and their perseverance has resulted in a strong brand identity that stands the test of time. “We are about family. We love to cook wood-fire roasted pizzas on the weekends and tell stories with guests,” Kate shares. “The old charm of Paso is still very much alive.”
