Harmony’s tiny town charm is utterly delicious
Story by Jonathan LaFerrara
Photography by Jennifer Olson
A stop in the small, sleepy town of Harmony — between San Luis Obispo and Cambria — is to some nothing more than a mile marker on the Pacific Coast Highway drive. Drive by it at night, and it’s likely to be missed entirely. The welcome sign, which boasts a whopping 18 residents, is reason enough for passersby to Google the town and confirm this impossibly small population.
Asked about the number, Town of Harmony Co-Manager Nick Hickman chuckles. “[The townspeople] have always self-proclaimed a ‘population of 18, if you count the cows!’” he says. “There are still a few families who call the back rolling hills behind Harmony home [in the unincorporated area] … but I’m guessing the cows now outnumber the people.”
With more cows than people, it would be fair to assume few if any eateries exist in this 2.5 acres of town. But despite its small size, Harmony has played a significant role in the food trade of the county since it was founded by Swiss immigrants in 1869. Since then, Harmony has been known for its thriving dairy cooperative. At its peak in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Harmony was a bustling hub of dairy production, supplying milk, butter and cheese to the surrounding region.
The town’s name “Harmony” emerged after a period of local feuding was resolved, symbolizing newfound peace among the residents. Since then, Harmony has attracted notable visitors, including William Randolph Hearst, who would stop in on his travels to and from Hearst Castle. For a time, former actress Aarika Wells, known for work on TV shows such as “The Dukes of Hazzard” and “Dallas,” managed the town.
For many, the attraction of Harmony is the feeling it creates of stepping back in time, where the hustle of modern life fades away. Here, time slows down and life moves slowly.
“The future of Harmony is all about preserving the look and feel of the past,” explains Nick. “There are no plans to alter any of the original creamery infrastructure — the old dairy cellar has long been converted into Harmony Chapel, where it still continues to host the weddings of couples seeking out the distinctive atmosphere of Harmony. And take Morii, a coffee shop and the most recent addition to the town. They were able to restore a corner of the original Harmony Valley Creamery building into a small batch, artisan coffee shop and roastery.”
The restoration of Harmony is credited to Alan Vander Horst, a CalPoly graduate who purchased the town in 2014. A third-generation dairy farmer with deep ties to the Central Coast, Alan valued the region for its fertile land and storied past. He actively contributed to local communities by mentoring in Cal Poly’s dairy sciences programs, raising cattle, supporting 4H chapters and owning a vineyard in Edna Valley. His strong connection to the land and its history, particularly Harmony’s heritage as a dairy community, motivated him to purchase the town. “As a third generation California Dairy Farm Family, we felt a calling to preserve the heritage of the dairy history on the central coast and the quirkiness of Harmony over the last 125 years of its existence,” says Alan. “It has passed through many iterations of different personalities and purposes, and we felt it was ready — and were excited at the opportunity — for a fresh perspective to offer tourists, historians, and brides and grooms alike. Restoring the original Harmony Valley Cream brand through an artisan ice cream brand was a natural way to pay homage to the central coast dairy families and communities that came before while bringing smiles to many new faces. In 2022, Alan’s eldest daughter Anneke Vander Horst, and her husband Nick, assumed the roles of Town Co-Managers.
Today, this quaint one-block downtown is brimming with culinary delights. Among them is Harmony Valley Creamery ice cream, served every weekend — weather permitting — from one of two vintage scoop trucks restored from 50s and 60s-era DIVCO milk trucks. The ice cream is crafted in Paso Robles’ Tin City using milk from Scott Bros. Dairy and made in small batches — no more than 24 per week, totaling about 126 gallons. It’s a family affair, managed by another of Alan’s daughters, Katrina Vander Horst, alongside Anneke and Nick.
For libations, there is Harmony Cellars, which is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year. Established in 1989 by Chuck and Kim Mulligan, it proudly claims the title of being the 18th winery in the Paso Robles AVA. From its modest beginnings as a 2,000-case micro-winery, Harmony Cellars has evolved into a 7,000-case boutique production facility. Its 150 acres of family-owned property spans four generations and was originally acquired by Kim’s great-grandfather, Giacomo (James) Barlogio, from William Randolph Hearst. James, a Founder of the Old Creamery Co-op in Downtown Harmony, was even producing wine in his basement during Prohibition.
And as mentioned earlier, there’s Morii, founded by Hunter Ayers. He opened the shop in Harmony in 2023, thanks to a simple suggestion by his father, who said he “knew a guy who owns Harmony. How about I give him a call?”
“Admittedly, Harmony might slip from many people’s minds,” shares Hunter. “I’ll confess, I was one of them. Yet, as I pondered our business and its essence, being part of Harmony’s artisan community felt serendipitous and aligned with our vision. It was the right choice.” Morii serves only organic or fair-trade coffees, organic house-made flavors and organic milk options. The packaging, too, is a hyperconscious decision, made of eco-friendly rice paper.
“I love the Central Coast and this community,” Hunter continues. “I think so many of us who have lived here our whole lives share the feeling that this place is the best place, and have a deep connection to each other and the environment here.”
Nick agrees. “In an age where many of our modern industries are driven by enormous institutions and corporations, there’s a very organic and invigorating feeling to be working within a framework where family is at the core.”
