The New French Revolution
Photography by Hugo Martinez
Though the fourth Thursday in November denotes for many the gathering of family, passing of biscuits and carving of turkey, the day does inspire the same childhood memories for those born on foreign soil. However, behind the counter and in the cellars of the county’s various food and drink establishments are a number of French natives, who, despite a lack of national connection with the holiday, now find themselves celebrating Thanksgiving. From joining their American friends’ dinners, to creating traditions of their own, each of these leaders in the industry has a personalized take on tradition:
Chloe Asseo-Fabre, L’Aventure General Manager
Hometown: near Bordeaux
As French people, any excuse to have a feast, we do it. I serve gratin dauphinois, which is potato gratin with cream and cheese put in the oven. For wine, we usually do a mix of European wines and California — Paso wines from our colleagues and neighbors.
Julien Asseo, Les Petit Canailles Owner
Hometown: near Bordeaux
I love mushrooms during the fall so there’s always mushrooms involved, and when we feel fancy, truffles like truffle oil. We also like to do some nice comforting roast, like a whole roasted bird or rack of pork.
Roger Nicolas, RN Estate Owner
Hometown: near Brittany
We add a few things, like foie gras sliders but we do the traditional Thanksgiving and respect the American tradition. At the beginning, we had roast duck, which my children thought was odd. Now we cook turkey. We want to be part of where we live and where our children live.
Bastien Leduc, Seven Oxen Estate Wines Winemaker
Hometown: Gaillac
A number of my childhood friends are winemakers in the Gaillac wine region so I like to open one of their bottles, such as a méthode ancestrale made from prunelart or mauzac grapes from Domaine de Cantalauze. I also like to dig in my cellar for some older vintages from my parents’ vineyard, Domaine de la Tronque, which is one way of sharing this special time of the year with them if we’re not together.
Arnaud Fabre, Benom Wines Owner
Hometown: Languedoc-Roussillon
I always prepare duck breast cooked in wood fires, which use dead vines. The fat from the duck creates a dense smoke, which adds many flavors to the meat.
Sophia Crouzet, Firestone Walker Brewing Marketing Specialist
Hometown: Bordeaux
I’m always amazed how our friends welcome us so easily to spend precious time with their family. With my husband, we love using that time of the year to invite some friends over to share a raclette. It is one of the best cheese meals.
Guillaume and Solene Fabre, Clos Solène Owners
Hometown: Languedoc-Roussillon and Bordeaux, respectively
A great bottle from Châteauneuf-du-Pape! It marries so well with white meat, as well as duck.
Xavier Arnaudin, Union Sacré Winemaker
Hometown: Alsace
About 20 years ago, my long-time friend tells me, ‘Hey, Frenchy, tomorrow you are coming with me to celebrate Thanksgiving at my mother’s house.’ I didn’t know what it was and my English was so little that I didn't [understand] the winery was closed and it was a holiday. I had a great time and amazing food.
Christian Roguenant, Lightpost Winery Associate Winemaker
Hometown: Burgundy
I play a bit of music and my son is a talented musician so at Thanksgiving, we oftentimes advise guests to bring their instruments. After the meal, we sit around and play music — anything from blues to jazz — and I always open bottles of wine.
José Dahan, Blue Moon Over Avila Founding Chef
Hometown: Toulouse
I’ll make a nice seafood table with shrimp cocktail, oysters, crab salad and we’ll drink Champagne, keep it light — no cheese or bread or beer. Then we have a traditional turkey and I make different types of stuffing. I like to make a Kentucky Derby Pie with pecan or walnut, chocolate and bourbon.
Frederic Delivert, Tolosa Winemaker
Hometown: Central and southwest France
Every year, we say we aren’t doing a turkey anymore but we always do. We enjoy garlic mashed potatoes with crème frâiche and we always have pinot noir, much of the time from my own winery.
